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My funkenbroken jetta just offered up a pair of 12 mm x 84 mm grade 10.9 bolts to me in the form of lower control arm bolts.
Anybody know what these are made of... All I have been able to find is "heat treated alloy".
They are small to work with alone, but with an equall amount of 1095 would yield a good size blank, even after the hammer welding loss. Am not so concerned about stress damage / fatigue. Hammer welding **seems** to negate or minimize the problems of used automotive steel. (Or at least I have been lucky and had no issuse with it thus far).
Was also wondering about grade 8.8 and 9.8 bolts?
Anyone have experience with these?
Anybody know what these are made of... All I have been able to find is "heat treated alloy".
They are small to work with alone, but with an equall amount of 1095 would yield a good size blank, even after the hammer welding loss. Am not so concerned about stress damage / fatigue. Hammer welding **seems** to negate or minimize the problems of used automotive steel. (Or at least I have been lucky and had no issuse with it thus far).
Was also wondering about grade 8.8 and 9.8 bolts?
Anyone have experience with these?
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Re: 10.9's & 8.8's
04/24IF they comply with ISO 898-1, then the 8.8's will be medium carbon plain carbon steel and the 10.9's will be either medium carbon plain carbon, medium carbon low alloy, or low carbon boron steel.
Once them puppies are heated to forging temps (let alone welding temps) there won't be any stress or fatigue left in them. Only problem might be microcracks - but welding is welding. -
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Re: 10.9's & 8.8's
04/26Thanks Lee. Considering they are the orginal lower control arm bolts to an '85 jetta with nigh 200 k on the clock, I wouldn't bet there there aren't some stress fractures, hence welding. Hmm, thinking just the 10.9's and the 8.8's and forget the 1095. May not harden too well, but is worth an try just to find out. Am looking for something to match up with the two sets of piston rings I have. (Damn those things break easily and the second set for one ring is always painful). The con rod bearings are 52100, but the wroing shape. Should probably wait till I get the head redone and match up the old valve springs to the piston rings.... Have no idea whay I want to make a knife of to franken-jetta refuse, but I am going to. -
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Re: 10.9's & 8.8's
05/01You could make up a pattern from the bolts, cut it in two pieces, and sandwich your 1095 in the middle. This would give you good steel for your edge. HT as you would for a homogenous 1095 blade.
Is it the con rod you have available, or just the needle bearings. If it's the rod, you could forge a litle kerambit. -
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Re: 10.9's & 8.8's
05/03Just have the 2 sets (16) flat 1x3x3/32 - ish con rod bearings right now. will be a pain to make some 1095 match up to them, but the result should be worth it. Using the billet pinning technique, would havw 2 16 layer billet to weld for 32 layers, then thirds to 96, then thrids again to 288. That's a quick trip to a lot of layers, almost enough to start losing pattern definitinon/homoginizing.
Will play with a lot of laterally cycled auto steel with wleding to deal with the stress issues, but con rods.... may be worth a shot, but they are one of the most stressed components in an engine. Anyhow, will be getting a 2 liter "ABA tall block" to sill under my large 8-valve hean and CIS-E injection, so, worst case senerio is a wasted day pounding bad metal..... not like I have never done that before in the interest of finding out things. What I am looking forward to are the crank shaft anf the cam shaft. The journals are going to be a PITA with politically correct hair color, but the stell should be ummm passable....... VW/Audi is very still-fingered about the alloys they use, can't even find out emailing form the shop which is kind of a drag.
Other question: Any clue about those lil flat wires in windshield wiper blades? Some are really springy, some not, some spark well others don't.... have thought about psuedo-cabling some with some ehaust spring bolt springs and some vavle springs..
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